mostexerent:

COVER YOUR ASS

There is a common misconception that one should have the length of their jackets as short as possible to give the perception of hight via longer leg balance to shorter body. Unless you are a ‘hipster’ & going for that certain look that will make you cringe next season, don’t read on.

The same goes for the misconception of shorter men must avoid cuffs with pants.

BAR-HUMBUG!

There is no actual quantum science or emperical measure as we are all blessed with different body proportions as shapes.

But in my opinion it is best to understand your body proportions & shape then adhere to some certain guidelines not rules to make you look your best:

1. Jacket MUST cover your ASS
2. Sleeves of jacket should be no shorter than the natural flex point - where your hand meets your wrist (I will elaborate on my technique later) & not past where your thumb meets your hand
3. Jacket MUST cover your ASS
4. Shoulder of jacket not sit before or no more than 2cm from the end of your natural shoulder
5. Jacket MUST cover your ASS
6. Body of jacket not be so tight that you look like an extra from some bad commercial shoot of certain ‘FASHUN’ brands or Men’s “STYLE” magazines
7. Jacket MUST cover your ASS
8. The actual buttoning point at your natural waist (give or take a cm, lower is better) & you natural waist is roughly where your belly button is. DO NOT GET CONFUSED with wearing jeans as they tend to sit on YOUR HIPS, unless you have progressed to Grown Man Style dungarees ;)
9. Jacket MUST cover your ASS
10. Pants should sit as close as possible to your natural waist (see above) - pants are not jeans
11. Jacket MUST cover your ASS
12. Good tailoring is not tight fitting, good tailoring provides movement
13. Jacket MUST cover your ASS

As mentioned in an earlier post, Patrick Johnson (tailor) & I changed a few minor measurements with this suit to keep it as ‘classic’ as possible compared to my other suits.

1. Jacket is nearly 2cm longer (see comparison to yesterdays flannel chalk stripe) to add an unbroken line
2. ‘Roped’ versus ‘soft’ shoulder or ‘con rollino’ v ‘spalla camicia’
3. Waist points or buttoning dropped by 1cm & retained circumference measurements
4. Higher sleeve hole to add elegance & to lengthen the torso
5. Sleeve shape & length the same
6. Different pocket treatment (actually tucked in the flaps)
7. Pants are same

What do we see?

Other than the grey suit looking more English & the navy chalk looking more Italian - see the difference.

Where the (sleeve) ends

“My method” as no tailor I know uses this but agree it works for me

1. Stand “naturally” & let arms hang “naturally”
2. Raise hands so that they are parallel to the floor - yoga helps
3. Jacket sleeve kisses back of hand with no break, this is ‘my’ natural flex point & where I try & make sure all my sleeves finish
4. Ask tailor to pin or take measurement
5. Walk around & start again to make sure it is the same

Now have a look at the full body shots & see the consistency & the effects this gives me.

Is there a natural flow from shoulder to arm to wrist point & where the jacket finishes.

Finally - if your jacket body is too short (as in not covering your ass), your sleeves will look too long & hence throw the whole visual proportions out & the above will make no impact.

FWIW I am:

• 5’7” or 175cm. Not of model height
• 160 lb or 73 kg. Too many burgers & dumplings
• 18.5” or 47cm across the shoulder. So wider than what my height dictates if I was ‘average’
• Rather not disclose my waist. Too many burgers & dumplings

The most important message - find a GOOD tailor that you connect with & TRUST him or her.

Details | Suit - P Johnson for GW | Shirt - Ascot Chang for GW | PS - Facconable | Tie - 15 YEAR OLD Channel (sheesh I have an old passport picture of me wearing this same tie) | Hoofs - John Lobb “Phillip II” on 7000 last for Leather Soul

More excellent information. I really love this blog.

mostexerent:

Shape, Drape or Both?

Both is possible & preferable in my opinion - too many are trapped into thinking that tight fitting means shape.. When it is actually the opposite.

See how my jacket still has shape even not button up.

How is this possible?

Start with the shoulders then working down to the cuff:

• Make sure they sit on with a slight extension & not before the shoulder point
• “Natural” shaped shoulder line gives a softer & more sensual appearance whilst a structured shoulder will add power as well as elegance - nothing wrong with either as long as they suit your body type & not over built.
• The chest needs enough fullness & not tightness - see the clean subtle draping. No creases or gaping. Everything looks ”natural”
• The waist has ”natural” suppression at the ”natural” waist point to give shape - not tight like a corset
• Hips are in line with the shoulder or below to give balance
• Pants are sitting at your ”natural” waist not hips
• Open quarters aka the bottom of the jacket where the left & right meet (noticeable when buttoned) will mirror the lapels in a figure eight
• Skirt of the jacket has a slight flare
• Pantaloons not hanging naturally & with a slight break.

So as it starts to warm up, ”airforce blue” is always a great option to wearing navy or grey. Especially if there is some mohair in the mix. This suit is totally different in direct light, it’s like DISCO! So one has to ensure the other components are subtle.

You want to make sure the over all effect does not compete but look ”natural”.

The oncoming eye should not be competing for any detail..

So DITCH the H belt or novelty cuff links..

Details | Suit - P Johnson in Loro Piana wool/mohair for GW | Shirt - P Johnson in Thomas Mason for GW | Knit tie - Drakes (this one is a mix of black & navy) | PS - vintage Japanese kimono cloth | DubMunks - John Lobb 2010 St Crepin for Leather Soul for GW

* My Sistah just enjoys PHOTO BOMBING!

** FYI - I am standing 3m away from the camera whilst my Sistah is 1.5m

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thedapperdad:

There are many Made in the USA lists throughout the internet, nearly all of them tacky and in poor taste. These awful websites have led me to compile a list of stylish and cool brands that make their goods in America. One of my goals with this is to make it easier to locate and buy domestically produced apparel products. Another motivating factor is my desire for things Made in the USA to be embraced by a younger, more stylish consumer.

(Source: ACL - A Continuous Lean)

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